1999 Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve

Fra: alchemeus (Opprinnelig melding) Sendt: 24.01.2004 17:50
Part One:

A local shop recently had this wine 'on sale' for $80. And as most of you know by now I don't consider but a rare handful of wines worth that. However, I was having a good week and the credit cards were at Zero and, well, I enjoy experimenting. Trying a Uruguayan wine (1999 Zarranz Tannat Robile which btw I've bought more of) should confirm that. So I bought the last three of these they had on the shelves. Partly because Parker basically trashed this wine in his now famous bashing of Mondavi a year or so ago and partly because years ago the basic Mondavi Napa was a favorite and partly because I enjoyed the (1998?1999?2000?) Mondavi Oakville.
So I opened one tonight. Not decanted. Nice deep dark garnet color. Immediate nose of thick cassis, black fruits, earth, and an aroma I can only describe as pecan/morel. This is a FULL bodied wine with nicely ripe tannins, pleasant fresh crisp acidity, plentiful dark fruits that show throughout the mouth from attack to finish. Some very slight but nice bramble notes. Still tons of tannins to resolve but they are ripe (in this bottle anyway) but with fruit and freshness to hang with them. Some slight cedar notes beginning to come out after an hour but the oak seems extremely well done and integrated. While the basic initial notes remain there is some variation (complexity) as the time goes by. The best comparison I can give is something between the 1986 Montelena and Haut-Brion.

Actually one of the best >$50 wines I've ever bought.

So Parker initially reviewed this wine sometime near the end of 2000 and hasn't revisited it. He gave it a nice review and a respectable 'score' of 87-88. My impression from wines he's scored higher (and the review he gave) is that he must be comparing this wine to Screaming Eagle and Harlan or such wines which may be much more extracted and fruit forward and lower acid (his California style?) as this is a grand wine.

While it still shouts California it doesn't scream whore. I likes it. Lots.

I'll save most of it for tomorrow.

Part Two:

24 hours open in bottle (with cork back on) sitting at room temp on our wine table next to sliding glass doors. Stays around 66°F.

More cassis and some evident wood now on the nose. Still earthy with hints of mushrooms and savory spice. Some coffee notes now also.

Seems a tad more balanced now and the mid-palate to backend is even 'thicker', but still grand fruit (still dark fruits) and freshness. Lovely grip and mouthfeel.

The only similar California wine I've had to compare is a 1986 Chateau Montelena Estate Tom Whettle shared a year ago at a gathering. That is the bottle I just got a glance at before tasting and after tasting thought it was a 1996 as it was so fresh and tannic and fruity. I don't know how the 1986 and 1999 vintages compare or contrast, but the Montelena was more fruit forward and tannic and perhaps a little monolithic than this 1999 Mondavi Reserve. Which do I prefer? That's a little like asking which of my cats I prefer. I would not reject either one and like them equally for different 'personalities'. However, since I have more recent experience with the Mondavi and I enjoy the seeming restrained style of the Mondavi more, I'd probably pick it if a gun were held against my head.

I rarely buy any wine anywhere near the price of this wine (comparatively that is, as I have some Haut-Brion, Margaux, La Mission, Mouton, Grange, some Grand Cru Burgundy, and the like) it is nice to drink (not just taste) one of the consensus top wines of the world every so often. And for some reason I generally prefer these in average vintages. It helps me calibrate my palate. I generally learn something (even if its something as simple as 'now that's a full bodied wine!').

And I get a hint of why these are indeed considered among the finest wines made.

And it's just damn tasty and enjoyable.